salt water is what keeps me aloft
it washes over
it tosses me under
it swirls, it grabs
it tosses me off
one of the secrets
is when to push off
when to align your body
when to dive in
when to grab sand
when do you spin
the thrill is the catching
the art is the curl
the measure of distance
descent down the world
no time for rewrites
no time for stories
crash on the beach
that is your glory
crash on the beach
that is your glory
i heard them saying
the waves have relaxed
the sets have diminished
the ocean is flat
but just off the point
to a reef far away
just waiting to answer
the second wave
***
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